Avocado flesh and/or skin extract rich in polyphenols and cosmetic, dermatological and nutraceutical compositions comprising same

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to an avocado extract rich in polyphenols, containing at least 10% by weight of polyphenols, expressed in gallic acid equivalent relative to the dry extract obtained, wherein said polyphenols contain procyanidins, cafeic acid and cafeic acid derivatives, typically in a proportion of at least 70% by weight, expressed in gallic acid equivalent relative to the total polyphenol content by weight. The invention also relates to a composition comprising an extract according to the invention as active agent and a suitable excipient. The invention also relates to such a composition or such an extract for use thereof in preventing or treating disorders or pathological conditions of the skin, the mucous membranes or the superficial body growths. Finally, the invention relates to a cosmetic care process for the skin, the superficial body growths or the mucous membranes, with a view to improving the condition thereof or the appearance thereof, which consists in administering such a composition or such an extract.

The invention relates to an extract of avocado fruit, notably avocado flesh and/or skin, rich in polyphenols, and to cosmetic, pharmaceutical, dermatological and nutraceutical compositions including such an extract and optionally a suitable carrier.

The invention also has as an object a method for extracting an avocado extract rich in polyphenols, as well as the extract likely to be obtained by said method.

The invention also relates to such a composition or such an extract for use thereof in the prevention or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin, mucous membranes or appendages. Finally, the invention relates to a cosmetic care method for the skin, appendages or mucous membranes, in order to improve the condition or appearance thereof, consisting of administering such a composition or such an extract.

The avocado tree (Persea americana or Persea gratissima) belongs to the family Lauraceae.

There is a great diversity of avocado varieties. Among the most widespread, mention may be made of the Hass, Fuerte, Ettinger, Bacon, Nabal, Ananheim, Lula, Reed, Zutano, Quenn, Criola Selva, Mexicana Canta, Tegion Dschang, Hall, Booth, Peterson and Collinson Redn varieties. Particularly, the Hass, Fuerte, Ettinger and Bacon varieties will be selected, and more advantageously the Hass and Fuerte varieties. The weight of the fruits may vary from 50 g to more than 1 kg. The fruit consists of 10 to 20% seed, 7 to 15% integument and 65 to 80% flesh. The skin is of variable thickness, texture and color, smooth to rough, in general green but may become brown, purplish to black.

The flesh is of variable flavor and color and is on average composed of:

TABLE 1 Composition of avocado flesh; *Wei Wang, Food Chemistry, 122: 1193-1198 (2010) Water  70-85% Proteins 1.5-4.5% Lipids  12-23% Sugars 1.5-5% Fibers 1.1-1.6% Polyphenols Between 0.06 and 0.5% in fresh flesh Highly variable = (varieties)

The flesh of the avocado is widely used by South American population to give the hair shine. Topical applications of avocado flesh on the skin are also very common for its antioxidant and nutritive activity, related to the nature of the lipids of which it is composed (fatty acids and unsaponifiable fraction-vitamin E).

The fruits, in particular their flesh, are commonly used in home remedies in the tropics. The fruits are very rich in vitamins A, B, C, D, E and K and are recommended for diabetics. The flesh is also acaricidal (and vermifugal), aphrodisiac and tonic. It is used in South America in poultices to treat boils and whitlow.

It has been shown that a high consumption of avocados has an effect on blood cholesterol levels. In particular, after 7 days of an avocado-rich diet, patients with hypercholesterolemia saw their total cholesterol levels decrease by 17%. These subjects also showed a 22% decrease in (bad) LDL cholesterol levels and triglycerides, and an 11% increase in (good) HDL cholesterol. Its monounsaturated fatty acids are excellent for cardiovascular health and good blood cholesterol (HDL). Moreover, the avocado is a very good source of fibers (soluble and insoluble) and antioxidants.

The term “polyphenols” refers to a vast family of molecules, widespread in the plant world, characterized by the presence of one or more phenolic nuclei, notably comprising the following subfamilies:

-   -   phenolic acids (cinnamic and benzoic);     -   flavonoids, near-universal plant pigments, responsible for the         colors of flowers, fruits and sometimes leaves. Anthocyans are         members of this family (blue to violet in color, passing through         red);     -   quinones and anthraquinones and certain derived condensed forms;         and     -   more complex and polymerized forms: hydrolysable tannins derived         from gallic acid and ellagic acid; condensed tannins derived         from catechic acid, OPC or proanthocyanidols.

These molecules are known for their numerous biological activities (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial) and are used in the fields of pharmacy, cosmetics and nutrition/dietary supplements as a function of certain specific structures.

Polyphenols are widely distributed in numerous families of the higher plant kingdom because they are often essential to their survival, namely protection against various external attacks (UV rays, drought, microorganisms, etc.).

Among the most widespread and used polyphenols, mention may be made of polyphenols from tea (Camellia sinensis), grape (Vitis vinifera), cocoa (Theobroma cacao). The application FR 2 928 263 describes compositions including a combination of plant polyphenols (apple polyphenols are described in particular) and plant sugars. The polyphenols sought are polymeric polyphenols, and in particular procyanidins and prodelphinidins. The avocado is not cited as a source of sugars.

The inventors have discovered that polyphenol-rich extracts of avocado (Persea gratissima or americana) have cosmetic, dermatological, pharmaceutical and nutraceutical properties, in particular cosmetic and dermatological properties, never described to date. In particular, it is the first time that polyphenol-rich extracts of avocado have been used as such, for their specific properties.

The objects of the invention are in particular:

-   -   a polyphenol-rich extract of avocado fruit, containing at least         10% by weight of polyphenols, expressed in gallic acid         equivalents in relation to the dry extract obtained, said         polyphenols advantageously being procyanidins, caffeic acid and         derivatives of caffeic acid, typically in a proportion of at         least 70% by weight expressed in gallic acid equivalents in         relation to the total polyphenols content by weight. In         particular, the extract contains 10 to 30% by weight of         polyphenols expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to         the weight of the dry extract. The proportions of procyanidins,         caffeic acid and derivatives of caffeic acid in said polyphenols         are advantageously at least 80% by weight expressed in gallic         acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by         weight.         -   The procyanidins are advantageously selected from the group             composed of B-type procyanidin dimers, A- and B-type             procyanidin trimers and A- and B-type procyanidin tetramers.         -   The polyphenols contained in this extract advantageously             contain at least 30% by weight of procyanidins, expressed in             gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols             content by weight.         -   The polyphenols contained in this extract advantageously             contain caffeic acid and derivatives thereof, typically in a             proportion of at least 30% by weight, expressed in gallic             acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols             content by weight.         -   The extract advantageously further includes at least 10%,             advantageously from 10 to 60% of avocado sugars, said sugars             containing at least D-mannoheptulose and/or perseitol, with             percentages being expressed by weight in relation to the             total weight of the dry extract.         -   The extract is advantageously obtained by extraction of the             avocado fruit, advantageously by extraction of avocado             fruits that first have been dried, under gentle conditions,             and then delipidated.         -   In one advantageous variant, it is obtained by solid-liquid             extraction of part of the avocado fruit in an aqueous and/or             alcoholic and/or glycolic and/or glycerolic solvent. The             solvent is advantageously selected from the group composed             of water, ethanol, glycerol or a glycol such as propanediol,             and mixtures thereof, such as binary mixtures, in             proportions between 0 and 100% of water in relation to other             solvents.     -   a composition including as active agent an extract of the         invention and, advantageously a suitable carrier. In particular,         the composition is a cosmetic, pharmaceutical, dermatological or         nutraceutical composition.         -   The composition advantageously further includes another             active agent, in particular selected from the group composed             of emollients, moisturizing active agents, keratoregulators,             keratolytics, healing agents and/or agents that restructure             the cutaneous barrier, PPAR, RXR or LXR agonists,             sebum-regulating agents, anti-irritation and/or             anti-inflammatory and/or soothing agents, antioxidant             agents, anti-aging agents, depigmenting or hypopigmenting             agents, pigmenting agents, lipolytic or lipogenesis             inhibitor agents or anti-cellulitis or slimming agents,             organic or mineral sun screens and filters (pigmentary or             ultrafine), antifungal compounds, preservatives,             antibacterial agents, prebiotics and probiotics,             antibiotics, and immunomodulators.         -   The composition advantageously includes as another active             agent an agent useful in the treatment of acne, in             particular selected from the group comprised of 5-alpha             reductase inhibitors, zinc (and gluconate, salicylate salts             thereof, and pyroglutamic acid), spironolactone, linoleic             acid, antibiotics, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, vitamin             PP, vitamin B3, cyclins, extracts of pumpkin seeds, squash             seeds oil and palmetto.     -   an extract or a composition of the invention to be used as a         pharmaceutical, dermatological or cosmetic composition or as a         functional food; in particular to be used in the prevention         and/or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and/or         mucous membranes and/or appendages, more particularly to be used         in the prevention and/or treatment of allergic, inflammatory,         irritative reactions or pathologies, or disorders of the barrier         or homeostasis of the skin, or vascular disorders, or as a         depigmenting or healing agent.     -   a cosmetic care method for the skin and/or appendages and/or         mucous membranes, with a view to improving the condition and/or         appearance thereof, consisting of administering a composition or         an extract of the invention.

The expression “polyphenol-rich extract of avocado” refers to an extract obtained by methods making it possible to concentrate the polyphenols potentially present in the avocado in such a way that this extract contains at least 10% by weight of polyphenols, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the weight of the dry extract. According to one advantageous variant of the invention, the extract contains 10 to 30% by weight of polyphenols, more advantageously 10 to 20% by weight of polyphenols, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the dry extract obtained.

The proportion of dry extract in the extract of the invention, expressed by weight in relation to the total weight of the extract, varies from 0.01 to 90%, advantageously from 0.5 to 50%, more advantageously from 0.5 to 15%, even more advantageously from 0.5 to 5%.

The polyphenols contained in this extract contain procyanidins, caffeic acid and derivatives of caffeic acid, in particular esterified derivatives, in a proportion of at least 70%, advantageously at least 80%, more advantageously at least 90%, even more advantageously at least 95%, by weight expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight.

Procyanidins are oligomers of catechins/epicatechins. Catechin and epicatechin are, respectively, the (+) and (−) optical isomers of the molecule of the following formula (I):

The procyanidins are advantageously B-type procyanidin dimers. Procyanidins of the B-1, B-2, B-3 and B-4 types are dimers composed of two units (+)-catechin and (−)-epicatechin, linked in C₄-C₈. Procyanidins of the B-5, B-6, B-7 and B-8 types are dimers composed of two units (+)-catechin and (−)-epicatechin, linked in C₄-C₆.

The procyanidins are more advantageously A and B type procyanidin trimers.

The procyanidins are more advantageously A and B type procyanidin tetramers.

The procyanidins are more advantageously oligomeric or polymeric procyanidins (number of units of catechin or epicatechin >4).

The polyphenols contained in this extract advantageously contain at least 30%, more advantageously at least 50% by weight of procyanidins, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight.

The polyphenols contained in this extract advantageously also contain caffeic acid and derivatives thereof in a proportion of at least 20%, more advantageously at least 30% by weight, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight.

Caffeic acid has the following formula (II):

Caffeic acid and its derivative, phenethyl caffeate ester (ester of caffeic acid and 2-phenylethanol), are present in many plants, and in particular in a large quantity in coffee, from which it gets its name. Caffeic acid may be present in esterified form, for example with quinic acid with which it forms chlorogenic acid. Among other esterified forms, mention may be made of caffeoyl tartaric (or caftaric) acid formed with tartaric acid, caffeoyl shikimic acid (formed with shikimic acid), caffeoyl malic acid (formed with malic acid), or esterified with glucose (caffeoyl glucose) or in amide form with putrescine (caffeoyl putrescine).

Other polyphenols may also be present in the extract of the invention but they are, however, a minority. Their content by weight, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight, is advantageously less than 30%, more advantageously less than 20%, even more advantageously less than 10%, even more advantageously less than 5%, even more advantageously less than 2%.

According to one advantageous variant of the invention, the extract contains at least 10%, advantageously from 10 to 60%, more advantageously from to 30% of avocado sugars, typically said sugars containing at least D-mannoheptulose and/or perseitol (percentages are expressed by weight in relation to the weight of the dry extract).

In the context of the present invention, the terms “D-mannoheptulose” and “perseitol” also cover the chemical derivatives thereof.

The avocado sugars are mainly D-mannoheptulose, perseitol, sucrose, glucose and fructose. Traces of other sugars may be found, but their content is less than 5% by weight, advantageously less than 2% by weight, in relation to the total weight of avocado sugars.

In the extract of the invention, the total proportion of D-mannoheptulose and/or perseitol in the avocado sugars is advantageously at least 50% by weight in relation to the total sugars content by weight. More advantageously, the total proportion of D-mannoheptulose and/or perseitol in the avocado sugars is from 50 to 98% by weight, more advantageously 55 to 95% by weight, even more advantageously 60 to 90% by weight, in relation to the total sugars content by weight.

The weight ratio of D-mannoheptulose to perseitol varies advantageously from 1:10 to 10:1.

The extract of the invention advantageously contains 0 to 50% by weight, more advantageously 0 to 20% by weight, even more advantageously 0 to 10% by weight of avocado lipids, with percentages being expressed by weight in relation to the total weight of the dry extract.

The extract of the invention advantageously contains 0 to 60% by weight, more advantageously 1 to 30% by weight, even more advantageously 5 to 15% by weigh of avocado proteins, with percentages being expressed by weight in relation to the total weight of the dry extract (Bradford assay).

The extract of the invention is obtained by extraction of a portion of the avocado fruit, preferentially the flesh and/or skin. More particularly, the residual oil cake from the pressing of dried avocado flesh is used. Preferentially, said flesh has been dried beforehand before the lipid extraction.

It is particularly advantageous to use avocado fruits (flesh and/or skin) that first have been dried, under gentle conditions, and then delipidated. Indeed, it has been noted that under such conditions the optimal preservation of polyphenols can be ensured by inactivation of polyphenol oxidase during drying (even extracts containing no polyphenol oxidase can be obtained).

Advantageously, this extract is obtained by solid-liquid extraction of a portion of the avocado fruit in an aqueous and/or alcoholic and/or glycolic and/or glycerolic solvent. The portions of the fruit preferentially selected are dried and/or defatted flesh (oil cake) and/or the skin, more preferentially flesh dried under gentle conditions and then defatted.

The solvent is advantageously selected from the group composed of water, ethanol, glycerol or a glycol such as propanediol, and mixtures thereof, such as binary mixtures, in proportions between 0 and 100% of water in relation to other solvents.

Mainly, binary mixtures of solvents composed of water and a solvent selected from ethanol, glycerol or propanediol are used.

More particularly, between 0.1 and 50% by weight (expressed in relation to the total weight of avocado+solvent) of the dried portion of avocado is introduced into the extraction solvent, and preferentially 10% by weight.

In the presence of ethanol, preferentially a proportion between 30 and 70% of ethanol in water, and advantageously between 50 and 60% of ethanol in water, will be chosen (percentages are expressed by weight of ethanol in relation to the total weight of water+ethanol).

In the presence of glycerol, preferentially a concentration between 40 and 90% of glycerol, and preferentially between 60 and 80%, will be chosen (percentages are expressed by weight of glycerol in relation to the total weight of water+glycerol).

In the presence of glycol, and more particularly of propanediol, preferentially a proportion between 40 and 80%, and advantageously between 50 and 60% of propanediol in relation to water will be chosen (percentages are expressed by weight of propanediol in relation to the total weight of water+propanediol).

The extraction temperature is advantageously between 4 and 100° C., and preferentially between 10 and 60° C., and more particularly between 15 and 30° C.

The extraction period advantageously varies from minutes to 4 hours, more particularly from 30 minutes to 2 hours.

These various extractions may be followed by purification steps of ultrafiltration (10 kDa cut-off, for example), or diafiltration and/or nanofiltration (200 Da cut-off, for example), making it possible to concentrate the polyphenols at the expense of sugars (including the specific C₇ avocado sugars, mannoheptulose and perseitol).

The extract obtained following these purification steps advantageously includes 10 to 30% by weight of polyphenols, even more advantageously 10 to 20% by weight of polyphenols, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the weight of the dry extract.

The sugars content in the extract obtained following these purification steps is advantageously between 5 and 20% by weight, in relation to the weight of the dry extract.

The sugars present in this extract advantageously include 20 to 60% of D-mannoheptulose and/or perseitol, more advantageously 30 to 60% of D-mannoheptulose and/or perseitol, expressed by weight in relation to the total weight of the sugars.

The extract obtained may be provided in liquid form, but also may be dried according to methods known to persons skilled in the art, such as atomization or freeze-drying, for example, with or without a support such as maltodextrin.

The invention also has as an object a method for preparing a polyphenol-rich avocado extract comprising the following sequential steps:

-   -   (a) liquid-phase dispersion in a suitable solvent of avocado         fruit (advantageously flesh and/or skin), and advantageously         dried defatted flesh (oil cake);     -   (b) subjection of the mixture obtained following step (a) to         extraction under stirring in an aqueous and/or alcoholic and/or         glycolic and/or glycerolic solvent, advantageously a mixture of         water and a solvent selected from the group composed of ethanol,         glycerol, a glycol (advantageously propanediol) and mixtures         thereof, advantageously in a proportion of 60% of these solvents         in water;     -   (c) centrifugation of the extract obtained following step (b)         and then filtration, or filtration directly;     -   (d) if the need arises, subjection of the extract obtained         following step (c) to an ultrafiltration and/or diafiltration         and/or nanofiltration step;     -   (e) following step (c) or (d), recovery of the polyphenol-rich         extract; and     -   (f) optional drying of the extract obtained following step (e)         on a support or not.

The extract is advantageously used as an active agent in a cosmetic, pharmaceutical, dermatological or nutraceutical composition, which may include one or more suitable carriers. The composition may further include at least one other active compound in addition to the polyphenol-rich avocado extract. This other compound may be selected from all the compounds and functional equivalents thereof set forth below.

This other compound may be selected in particular from active agents classically used in dermatology, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics or nutraceuticals and known to persons skilled in the art such as emollients, moisturizing active agents, keratoregulators, keratolytics, healing agents and/or agents that restructure the cutaneous barrier, PPAR, RXR or LXR agonists, sebum-regulating agents, anti-irritation and/or anti-inflammatory and/or soothing agents, antioxidant agents, anti-aging agents, depigmenting or hypopigmenting agents, pigmenting agents, lipolytic or lipogenesis inhibitor agents or anti-cellulitis or slimming agents, organic or mineral sun screens and filters (pigmentary or ultrafine), antifungal compounds, preservatives, antibacterial agents, prebiotics and probiotics, antibiotics, and immunomodulators.

More particularly, the healing agents and/or agents that restructure the cutaneous barrier that may be used in combination are advantageously panthenol (vitamin B5), arabinogalactan, zinc oxide, ceramides, cholesterol, squalane and phospholipids.

The sebum-regulating agents that may be used in combination are advantageously selected from the group composed of 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as Zinc and zinc derivatives (gluconate, salicylate salts thereof and pyroglutamic acid).

The anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritation and/or soothing agent may be arabinogalactan.

Among hypopigmenting or depigmenting agents, particular mention may be made of N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine (Sepiwhite®)

The sun protection active agents that may be used in combination are advantageously UVB and/or UVA filters or sun screens, such as the mineral and/or organic screens or filters known to persons skilled in the art, who will adapt their choice and their concentrations according to the degree of protection sought.

The preservatives that may be used in combination are, for example, those generally used in cosmetics or nutraceuticals, molecules with antibacterial activity (pseudo-preservatives) such as caprylic derivatives like, for example, capryloyl glycine and glyceryl caprylate; hexanediol, sodium levulinate, and copper and zinc derivatives (gluconate and PCA).

Among the recommended active agents in combination with the extract of the invention, mention may be made of plant extracts, in particular:

-   -   plant oils such as soy oil and/or rapeseed oil, avocado oil         (WO2004/012496, WO2004/012752, WO2004/016106, WO2007/057439),         lupin oil, advantageously sweet white lupin oil (WO 98/47479),         or a mixture of these oils;     -   oleodistillates or concentrates of animal or plant oil, notably         sunflower, more advantageously linoleic sunflower concentrates,         such as the sunflower oil concentrated in unsaponifiables         (Soline®) (see the international application WO 01/21150)         marketed by Laboratoires Expanscience, oils concentrated in         unsaponifiables as the avocado oil, rapeseed oil, corn oil or         palm oil, useful notably for their moisturizing and/or         emollient, healing and/or cutaneous barrier restructure,         anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritation and/or soothing         activity;     -   unsaponifiables of plants or of plant oil, advantageously of         avocado furans (Avocadofurane®), able to be obtained by the         method described in the international application WO 01/21605,         unsaponifiables of avocado and/or soy, more particularly a         mixture of furanic unsaponifiables of avocado and         unsaponifiables of soy, advantageously in a respective ratio of         about 1/3-2/3 (such as Piascledine®), unsaponifiables of soy         (such as obtained according to the method described in the         international application WO 01/51596), sterolic unsaponifiables         (typically unsaponifiables whose proportion of sterols,         methylsterols and triterpene alcohols is between 20 and 95% by         weight, preferably 45-65% by weight, in relation to the total         weight of the unsaponifiable), phytosterols, esters of sterols         and vitamin derivatives, notably useful for their healing and/or         restructure of the cutaneous barrier, anti-aging or         anti-inflammatory activity;     -   peptides or complexes of plant amino acids, in particular of         avocado peptides (such as those described in the international         application WO2005/105123), lupin peptides (such as those         obtained according to the method described in the application         WO2005/102259), quinoa peptides (such as those described in the         international application WO2008/080974), maca peptides (such as         those described in the international application WO2004/112742),         fermented or non-fermented soy peptides, rice peptides (such as         those described in the international application WO2008/009709),         useful notably for their moisturizing and/or emollient activity         (avocado), keratoregulating activity (lupin, quinoa), healing         and/or cutaneous barrier restructuring activity (maca, quinoa,         soy), anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritation and/or soothing         activity (lupin, quinoa), antioxidant activity (avocado),         anti-aging activity (lupin, maca) and pigmenting activity         (rice);     -   plant sugars, in particular avocado sugars (such as those         described in the application WO2005/115421), useful notably for         their keratoregulator, healing and/or cutaneous barrier         restructure, anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritation and/or         soothing property;     -   butyl avocadate (5 alpha Avocute), 5-alpha reductase inhibitor         (see WO 01/52837 and WO 02/06205) typically regulator of the         seborrheic secretions found increased in acne and in dandruff;     -   polyphenol-rich extracts, and more particularly extracts of the         above-ground parts of Gynandropsis gynandra (FR 1 061 051) and         extracts of maca leaves (FR 1 061 047);     -   lupeol (FR 2 822 821, FR 2 857 596) useful notably to promote         healing;     -   total extract of lupin (such as those described in the         international application WO2005/102259), particularly suitable         for the treatment of irritations;     -   extract of Acacia macrostachya seeds (FR 0958525), extract of         maca leaves (FR 1 061 047), extract of Schisandra sphenanthera         seeds (FR 0955343 and FR 0955344) and Vigna unguiculata seeds         (FR 0958529).

Among the recommended active agents in combination with the extract of the invention, mention may be made of oxazolines, in particular those selected from the group comprised of 2-undecyl-4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-1,3-oxazoline, 2-undecyl-4,4-dimethyl-1,3-oxazoline, (E)-4,4-dimethyl-2-heptadec-8-enyl-1,3-oxazoline, 4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-2-heptadecyl-1,3-oxazoline, (E)-4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-2-heptadec-8-enyl-1,3-oxazoline, 2-undecyl-4-ethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-oxazoline, preferably 2-undecyl-4,4-dimethyl-1,3-oxazoline (OX-100 or Cycloceramide®; WO2004050052, WO2004050079 and WO2004112741). They are particularly useful for their anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritation and/or soothing, antioxidant, depigmenting, immunomodulatory activity.

Among the active agents recommended in combination with the extract of the invention, mention may be made of 5-alpha reductase inhibitors such as butyl avocadate (5 alpha Avocuta®)

All of these combinations include at least one other active compound, in addition to the polyphenol-rich avocado extract, and may include two, three, four or more active compounds as described above.

The composition of the invention may be formulated in the form of various preparations suitable for topical administration, for oral, rectal, vaginal, nasal, auricular or bronchial administration, as well as for parenteral administration.

According to a first variant, the various preparations are suitable for topical administration and notably include creams, emulsions, milks, pomades, lotions, oils, aqueous or water-alcoholic or glycolic solutions, powders, patches, sprays, shampoos, varnishes or any other product for external application.

According to a second variant, the various preparations are suitable for oral administration, with the polyphenol-rich avocado extract incorporated either in a dietary supplement or in a nutraceutical composition. In the context of the present invention, the dietary supplement may be provided in the form of the polyphenol-rich avocado extract as such or in the form of hard or soft plant- or gelatin capsules. Said dietary supplement may thus contain from 10 to 100% by weight of the polyphenol-rich avocado extract.

The composition of the present invention may be incorporated directly and with no other modification in nutraceuticals, diet products, notably hyper-protein products, or beverages by techniques such as mixing, infusion, injection, blending, absorption, kneading and spraying.

The modes of administration, posologies and optimal galenic forms of the compounds and compositions of the invention may be determined according to the criteria generally taken into account in the establishment of a pharmaceutical treatment, in particular a dermatological, cosmetic or veterinary treatment suitable for a patient or an animal, such as for example the age or the body weight of the patient or animal, the severity of the general condition of the patient or animal, tolerance to the treatment, noted side effects and skin type. Depending on the type of administration desired, the active composition and/or compounds of the invention may further include at least one pharmaceutically acceptable carrier, in particular a dermatologically acceptable carrier, or a cosmetically or nutraceutically acceptable carrier. According to the first variant, a carrier suitable for administration by external topical route is used. The composition of the present invention may further include at least one pharmaceutical or cosmetic adjuvant known to persons skilled in the art, selected from thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, colorants, chemical or mineral filters, moisturizing agents, thermal waters, etc.

The composition including a polyphenol-rich avocado extract having the indicated specifications is particularly intended for cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological use. The composition will be formulated advantageously in the form of a preparation suitable for topical administration.

The invention also has as an object the use of a polyphenol-rich avocado extract for the manufacture of a cosmetic, pharmaceutical, dermatological or nutraceutical composition or a functional food.

Advantageously, the composition or extract of the present invention is used in the prevention and/or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or appendages.

In particular, the composition or extract of the invention is intended for the prevention and/or treatment of allergic, inflammatory or irritative reactions or pathologies, or disorders of the barrier or homeostasis of the skin, appendages (hair and nails) and/or mucous membranes (gums, periodontium, genital mucosa), whether immature, normal or mature/aged.

The expression “disorders of the barrier of the skin, appendages and/or mucous membranes” refers to disorders intervening at the level of the external layer of the skin.

The expression “disorders of the homeostasis of the skin, appendages and/or mucous membranes” refers to disorders resulting from the processes of cell renewal and equilibrium such as psoriasis, diaper rash, atopic dermatitis, dry skin (xerosis), dehydrated skin and photosensitive skin.

Advantageously, the composition or extract according to the invention may be used for the prevention and/or treatment of reactions, disorders or pathologies of the:

-   -   skin, such as rosacea or erythrocouperosis, psoriasis, vascular         disorders, diaper rash, atopic dermatitis, eczema, contact         dermatitis, irritative dermatitis, allergic dermatitis,         seborrheic dermatitis (cradle cap), sensitive skin, reactive         skin, pruritus, dry skin (xerosis), dehydrated skin, skin with         redness, cutaneous erythema, aged or photoaged skin,         photosensitive skin, pigmented skin (melasma, post-inflammatory         pigmentation), skin with cellulitis, loose skin, skin with         stretch marks, scurf, chapping, bites, cracks, in particular of         the breasts, sunburn, inflammations due to rays of all types,         irritations by chemical, physical (for example tension stress         for pregnant women), bacteriological, fungal or viral, parasitic         (lice, scabies, tinea, mites, dermatophytes) or radiological         agents, or by a deficit in innate immunity (antimicrobial         peptides) or acquired immunity (cellular, humoral, cytokines),         and/or     -   mucous membranes such as the gums and periodontium subject to         gingivitis (sensitive gums of newborns, problems of hygiene, due         the use of tobacco or other products), periodontopathies, or         genital mucosa presenting irritations of the external or         internal male or female genitalia, and/or     -   epithelial appendages such as the nails (breakable, fragile         nails, etc.) and hair (alopecia, dandruff, hirsutism, seborrheic         dermatitis, folliculitis) whether immature, normal or mature,         presenting in particular disorders of the scalp such as         androgenetic, acute, localized, cicatricial and congenital,         occipital in infants and greata alopecia (or pelade), due to         chemotherapy/radiotherapy or telogen effluvium, anagen         effluvium, pilar dystrophy, trichotillomania, tinea or oily or         dry dandruff.

The composition or extract of the present invention is also used advantageously in the prevention and/or treatment of vascular disorders, and may be used advantageously in hypopigmentation by decreasing melanin and/or inhibiting tyrosinase, or as a healing agent.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic care method for the skin and/or appendages and/or mucous membranes, with a view to improving the condition and/or appearance thereof, comprising the administration of or consisting of administering a cosmetic composition or an extract of the present invention.

In one embodiment of the cosmetic method of the invention, the intended skin and/or appendagesand/or mucous membranes are advantageously those that are sensitive, irritated or damaged by the environment (UV rays, pollution), in particular sensitive skin.

The cosmetic method of the invention is also characterized in that the composition or extract is used as a moisturizing product, or as a chronological or photo-induced anti-aging product in the prevention of aging, and of photo-induced aging, or as a slimming and/or anti-cellulitis product, or as an anti-aging or anti-age spot product.

The expression “moisturizing product” refers to a product that in particular makes it possible to prevent and/or treat disorders of the barrier or homeostasis of the skin, appendages and/or mucous membranes.

The expression “anti-age spot product” refers to a product that makes it possible to reduce spots of pigmentation of the skin and/or appendages and/or mucous membranes.

The expression “slimming and/or anti-cellulitis product” refers to a product that makes it possible to improve the firmness, elasticity or tonicity of the skin, and/or to fight the accumulation of adipose tissue and skin with cellulitis.

EXAMPLE 1

Dried and defatted avocado flesh (oil cake) is suspended under stirring at a concentration of 10% in a 60/40 (w/w) ethanol/water mixture for 1 hour at room temperature. The residual dry matter is separated from the liquid phase by filtration, settling or centrifugation and the liquid phase thus obtained may be filtered using filters of suitable pore size in order to obtain a clear solution. The extract obtained has the following characteristics:

-   -   Dry extract: 2.56%     -   Total sugars (glucose, fructose, mannoheptulose, perseitol;         HPLC): 19.5%/dry     -   Total polyphenols (Folin-Ciocalteu; gallic acid equivalents):         14%/dry     -   Proteins (Bradford assay): 6.25%/dry.

This extract has anti-radical activity, “in tubo” anti-DPPH activity, for which the half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) could be determined and is 111 μg of dry extract, which represents 10.6 μg of polyphenols in the reaction medium.

EXAMPLE 2

Dried and defatted avocado flesh (oil cake) is suspended under stirring at a concentration of 10% in a 60/40 (w/w) glycerol/water mixture for 1 hour at room temperature. The residual dry matter is separated from the liquid phase by filtration, settling or centrifugation and the liquid phase thus obtained may be filtered using filters of suitable pore size in order to obtain a clear solution. The extract obtained has the following characteristics:

-   -   Dry extract: 3.45%     -   Total sugars (glucose, fructose, mannoheptulose, perseitol;         HPLC): 19%/dry     -   Total polyphenols (Folin-Ciocalteu; gallic acid equivalents):         12%/dry     -   Proteins (Bradford assay): 9%/dry.

This extract has anti-radical activity, “in tubo” anti-DPPH activity, for which the half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) could be determined and is 84 μg of dry extract, which represents 11.85 μg of polyphenols in the reaction medium.

EXAMPLE 3

Dried and defatted avocado flesh (oil cake) is suspended under stirring at a concentration of 10% in a 60/40 (w/w) propanediol/water mixture for 1 hour at room temperature. The residual dry matter is separated from the liquid phase by filtration, settling or centrifugation and the liquid phase thus obtained may be filtered using filters of suitable pore size in order to obtain a clear solution. The extract obtained has the following characteristics:

-   -   Dry extract: 2.74%     -   Total sugars (glucose, fructose, mannoheptulose, perseitol;         HPLC): 22%/dry     -   Total polyphenols (Folin-Ciocalteu; gallic acid equivalents):         16%/dry     -   Proteins (Bradford assay): 7%/dry.

This extract has anti-radical activity, “in tubo” anti-DPPH activity, for which the half maximal inhibitory concentration (IC₅₀) could be determined and is 119.5 μg of dry extract, which represents 18.5 μg of polyphenols in the reaction medium.

EXAMPLE 4 Compositions for Topical Application

The inventors present below several compositions for topical application. The polyphenol-rich extracts of avocado (Persea gratissima and americana) may be incorporated in various cosmetic products, such as cleansing water, oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, oils, milks, lotions, shampoos, foaming products and sprays, whose compositions are presented below.

Cleansing water for sensitive skin Brand or INCI name % Capryloyl glycine 0-1% Soda lye 0-1% Sequestrant 0-1% Butylene glycol 1-5% Beta-carotene 0-2% Polyphenol-rich avocado extract 0.01-10%   Preservatives 0-1% PEG-32 1-5% PEG-7 palmcocoate 1-5% Zinc gluconate 0-1% Citric acid 0-1% Purified water q.s. to 100% Fragrance 0-1% Poloxamer 184 1-5%

Anti-aging emulsion Brand or INCI name % Liquid isoparaffin  5-20% Isocetyl stearate  5-20% Al—Mg hydroxystearate  5-20% Abil WE 09 1-5% Glycerol 1-5% Vaseline oil 1-5% Micronized zinc oxide 1-5% Butylene glycol 1-5% Retinol 0-1% Vitamin C 0-5% Polyphenol-rich avocado extract 0.01-10%   Isononyl isononanoate 1-5% Beeswax 1-5% Sodium tartrate 1-5% Sodium chloride 0-5% Glycine 1-5% Preservatives 0-1% Cholesterol 0-1% Phytosphingosine 0-1% Tartaric acid 0-1% Purified water q.s. to 100%

Milk for dry, atopic skin Raw material/Brand or INCI name % Sweet almond oil 1-5% Corn oil 1-5% Stearic acid 1-5% C₁₆-C₁₈ cetyl acid 0-1% Antifoam 70414 0-1% Lauric alcohol 11OE 1-5% PEG 300 monolaurate 0-1% Glycerol monoleate 0-1% Glycerol monostearate 1-5% Vitamin B12 0-5% Polyphenol-rich avocado extract 0.1-10%  Preservatives 0-1% Citric acid 0-1% Trisodium citrate 0-1% Purified water q.s. to 100% Fragrance 0-1% Peanut oil 1-5% Hydrogenated palm oil 1-5%

Cleansing cream Raw material/Brand or INCI name % Purified water q.s. to 100% Arlatone 10-30% Cocoglucoside  5-20% Hydroxypropyl guar 1-5% Capryloyl glycine 0-2% Preservatives 0-2% Fragrance 0-1% Citric acid 0-1% Zinc PCA 0-1% Polyphenol-rich avocado extract 0.01-10%  

Antidandruff shampoo Raw material/Brand or INCI name % Purified water q.s.to 100% Lauroamphoacetate  5-20% Cocoglucoside  5-20% PEG 6000 distearate 1-5% Preservatives 0-2% Vitamin F 0-5% Piroctone olamine 0-2% Polyphenol-rich avocado extract 0.01-10%   Zinc pyrithione 0-1% pH adjuster 0-1% Sequestrant 0-1% Fragrance 0-1%

EXAMPLE 5 Compositions for Oral Administration

The avocado extracts are integrated into oral compositions, in compositions enabling the administration of 50 to 200 mg of polyphenol-rich avocado extract per day.

1/Anti-Stretch Marks Composition in the Form of Soft Capsules

Polyphenol-rich avocado extract  30 mg Awara oil  60 mg Unsaponifiable-rich rapeseed oil 300 mg Vitamin of group B (B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B9, B12) q.s. to 100% RDA Tocotrienols q.s. to 50% RDA Vitamin E Beeswax Soy lecithin Alimentary gelatin Glycerin q.s. to 1 soft capsule This composition is administered as four to six 500 mg capsules per day.

2/Anti-Hair Loss Tablets

Polyphenol-rich avocado extract  25 mg Cereal extracts (corn, buckwheat, millet, spelt) rich 200 mg in sulfur amino acids Vitamin C q.s. to 50% RDA Fish cartilage glycosaminoglycans 200 mg Glucidex IT 19 (compression agent) q.s. to one 800 mg tablet This composition is administered as five to eight tablets per day.

3/Example of Slimming Powder Sticks

Polyphenol-rich avocado extract 100 mg Polyphenol-rich tea extract 100 mg OPC-rich grape extract 50 mg Plant beta-glucans 100 mg Xanthan gum 1 mg Sodium ascorbate 0.3 mg Maltodextrin q.s. to 5 g This composition is administered twice per day.

EXAMPLE 6 Biological Activities

1. Anti-Inflammatory Effect

a. Anti-Inflammatory Activity on Keratinocytes

In the skin, the keratinocyte is one of the first cells taking part in the initiation of the inflammatory reaction in response to attack by the environment.

The “attacked” keratinocyte then releases cytokines which induce a cascade of reactions involving the immune system.

Materials and Methods:

Human keratinocytes (NCTC-2544 cell line) were preincubated or not (control) with the avocado extract concentrated in polyphenols (AV) at concentrations of 0.005% and 0.01% (w/v of active material) or the anti-inflammatory reference molecules (10⁻⁷ M dexamethasone, 10 ⁻⁶ M indomethacin) for 24 hours. The cells were then treated with 0.1 μg/ml phorbol myristate acetate (PMA) for 24 hours, always in the presence of AV or the references.

At the end of the treatment, the quantities of interleukin 8 (IL8) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) secreted were measured by ELISA in the culture supernatants.

The results were analyzed statistically by a Student's t-test.

Results and Conclusion:

AV strongly and significantly inhibited the production of the inflammatory mediators IL8 and PGE2 stimulated by PMA in keratinocytes (Table 1).

The AV extract thus has an anti-inflammatory activity.

TABLE 1 Production of IL8 and PGE2 by keratinocytes Inhibition IL8 (ng/ml) Control cells  0.1 ± 0.0 0.1 μg/ml PMA 50.1 ± 1.8 10⁻⁷M Dexamethasone  7.4 ± 0.8  85% p < 0.001 0.005% AV 24.2 ± 1.4  52% p < 0.001  0.01% AV 13.7 ± 0.6  73% p < 0.001 PGE2 (ng/ml) Control cells 0.039 ± 0.0  0.1 μg/ml PMA 138.4 ± 10.6 10⁻⁶M Indomethacin 0.039 ± 0.0  100% p < 0.001 0.005% AV 32.3 ± 3.1  77% p < 0.001  0.01% AV 10.1 ± 0.3  93% p < 0.001

b. Inhibition of the Production of Leukotriene B4 by Neutrophils

Leukotriene B4 (LTB4) is a lipid inflammatory mediator arising from the arachidonic acid pathway.

LTB4 is produced and released in large quantities by human neutrophil granulocytes via the activation of the enzyme 5-lipoxygenase; it plays an essential role in the development of cutaneous inflammatory reactions.

Materials and Methods:

Human neutrophils were preincubated for 15 minutes in the presence of the avocado extract concentrated in polyphenols (AV) at concentrations of 0.005%, 0.01% and 0.1% (w/v of active material).

The cells were then stimulated by adding 1 mg/ml opsonized zymosan.

After 10 minutes of incubation, the leukotriene B4 (LTB4) released by the cells was assayed in the cell supernatants by an ELISA technique.

The results were analyzed statistically by a Student's t-test.

Results and Conclusion:

AV significantly inhibited the production of LTB4 induced by opsonized zymosan on neutrophils (Table 2).

Thus, the AV extract modulates the inflammation induced by the neutrophil and LTB4.

TABLE 2 Production of leukotriene B4 by neutrophils LTB4 (pg/ml) Inhibition Control cells 31 ± 2.8 Stimulated cells 2900 ± 496.7 0.005% AV 2210 ± 779.3 −24% ns  0.01% AV 1737.5 ± 197.4   −40% p < 0.01  0.1% AV 1925 ± 434.9 −34% p < 0.05

C. Inhibition of Histamine Release

Mastocytes play an important role in allergic and inflammatory reactions. In human, they are widely distributed in connective tissue, such as the skin, serous mastocytes are the sentinel cells of the local inflammatory response. Substance P, a neuropeptide, acts on cutaneous mastocytes by inducing a rapid release of histamine preformed in storage granules; this mechanism of neurogenic inflammation is involved in various cutaneous pathologies.

Materials and Methods:

Mastocytes were preincubated for 30 minutes in the presence of the avocado extract concentrated in polyphenols (AV) at a concentration of 0.01% (w/v of active material) or 10 mM calcium (reference inhibitor of histamine release).

The mastocytes were then stimulated with 10 μM substance P for 15 minutes. At the end of incubation, the release of histamine was quantified by ELISA.

The results were analyzed statistically by a Student's t-test.

Results and Conclusion:

AV significantly inhibited the release of histamine by mastocytes stimulated with substance P (Table 3).

The AV extract modulates neurogenic inflammation notably related to histamine.

TABLE 3 Release of histamine by mastocytes Histamine (ng/ml) Inhibition Control 20.1 ± 1.9 Substance P 142.5 ± 9.6  10 nM Calcium 21.8 ± 1.0 −85% p < 0.01 0.01% AV 112.5 ± 9.6  −21% p < 0.01

2. Depigmenting Activity

The depigmenting effect of the AV extract was studied in two distinct models: by evaluation of the production of melanin in melanocytes; and by evaluation of the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin.

a. Inhibition of Melanogenesis

Materials and Methods:

Normal human epidermal melanocytes were cultured in the presence of 10⁻⁷ M NDP-MSH (α-MSH analog; induction of melanogenesis) and the avocado extract concentrated in polyphenols (AV) at concentrations of 0.001% and 0.005% (w/v of active material) or 0.25 mM kojic acid (reference).

After 240 hours of incubation, melanin was extracted from the cells and quantified by spectrophotometry.

The results were analyzed statistically by a Student's t-test.

Results and Conclusion:

AV significantly inhibited the production of melanin by melanocytes stimulated by NDP-MSH (Table 4).

AV thus has a depigmenting effect.

TABLE 4 Melanin production by melanocytes Melanin (μl/ml) Control cells 24.7 ± 0.0 Stimulated control 30.4 ± 0.9 +19% p < 0.01 (NDP-MSH) Reference  9.6 ± 0.6 −32% p < 0.001 (kojic acid) 0.001% AV 26.2 ± 0.6 −14% p < 0.05 0.005% AV 25.7 ± 0.5 −15% p < 0.05

b. Inhibition of Tyrosinase Activity

Materials and Methods:

The avocado extract concentrated in polyphenols (AV) and various concentrations of kojic acid (reference) were preincubated for 10 minutes at low temperature in the presence of tyrosinase extracted from human melanocytes.

The substrate of the enzyme, 2 mM L-DOPA, was then added.

After 1 hour of incubation at 37° C., enzymatic activity was evaluated by spectrophotometric measurement.

The results were analyzed statistically by a Student's t-test.

Results and Conclusion:

AV significantly inhibited the enzymatic activity of tyrosinase (Table 5). This result confirms the depigmenting effect of this extract.

TABLE 5 Human tyrosinase activity Tyrosinase (U/ml) Inhibition Control 182.7 0.0625 mM Kojic acid 166.8  −9% p < 0.05  0.25 mM Kojic acid 152.4 −17% p < 0.001 0.001% AV 165.5  −9% p < 0.05 0.005% AV 164.7 −10% p < 0.05  0.01% AV 162.5 −11% p < 0.01  0.05% AV 148.2 −19% p < 0.001  0.1% AV 142.4 −22% p < 0.001

3. Healing Activity: Stimulation of Markers of Reepithelialization

The cicatrization mechanism in response to a wound involves for epidermal repair a process of reepithelialization.

Cutaneous reepithelialization consists of the regeneration by keratinocytes of an organized, pavimentous, stratified and keratinized epithelium that covers the wound and that reconstitutes a protective barrier.

The reepithelialization mechanism proceeds in three steps: migration of keratinocytes, proliferation and maturation of the epidermis.

The effect of the AV extract was studied on the gene expression of markers involved in the keratinocyte migration step during this reepithelialization process, laminin-5 and matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP9).

Materials and Methods:

Normal human keratinocytes were incubated for 48 hours in the presence of the avocado extract concentrated in polyphenols (AV) at concentrations of 0.001% and 0.005% (w/v of active material) or 5 ng/ml TGFβ1 (reference).

The gene expression of MMP9 and laminin-5 (subunit γ2) was studied by real-time RT-PCR.

The results were analyzed statistically by a one-factor ANOVA followed by a Dunnett's test: ns (not significant) p>0.05; *p<0.05; ***p<0.001.

Results and Conclusion:

AV significantly increased the expression of markers of keratinocyte migration (Table 6).

This extract thus has a reepithelialization-activating effect, in favor of a repairing, pro-healing effect.

TABLE 6 Gene expression of markers for keratinocyte migration (relative quantity) Laminin-5 MMP9 Control cells 1.00 1.00 Reference 11.33 +1033% *** 19.84 +1884% *** (TGFβ1) 0.001% AV 1.62  +62% * 3.81  +281% *** 0.005% AV 1.51  +51% * 9.17  +817% *** 

1. A polyphenol-rich extract of avocado fruit, containing at least 10% by weight of polyphenols and advantageously between 10 and 30% by weight of polyphenols, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the dry extract obtained, said polyphenols advantageously containing procyanidins, caffeic acid and derivatives of caffeic acid, typically in a proportion of at least 70% by weight, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight.
 2. The extract of claim 1, characterized in that the proportions of procyanidins, advantageously selected from the group comprised of B-type procyanidin dimers, A- and B-type procyanidin trimers and A- and B-type procyanidin tetramers, of caffeic acid and of derivatives of caffeic acid in said polyphenols are at least 80% by weight, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight.
 3. The extract of claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the polyphenols contained in this extract contain at least 30% of procyanidins, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight.
 4. The extract of any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphenols contained in this extract contain caffeic acid and derivatives thereof in a proportion of at least 30% by weight, expressed in gallic acid equivalents in relation to the total polyphenols content by weight.
 5. The extract of any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further includes at least 10%, advantageously from 10 to 60% avocado sugars, said sugars containing at least D-mannoheptulose and/or perseitol, with percentages being expressed by weight in relation to the weight of the dry extract.
 6. The extract of any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is obtained by extraction of the avocado fruit, advantageously by extraction of avocado fruits that first have been dried, under gentle conditions, and then delipidated.
 7. The extract of any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is obtained by solid-liquid extraction of a portion of the avocado fruit in an aqueous and/or alcoholic and/or glycolic and/or glycerolic solvent.
 8. The extract of claim 7, characterized in that the solvent is selected from the group composed of water, ethanol, glycerol or a glycol such as propanediol, or mixtures thereof, advantageously binary mixtures, in proportions between 0 and 100% of water in relation to other solvents.
 9. A composition including as active agent an extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 and a suitable carrier, characterized in that it is a cosmetic, pharmaceutical, dermatological or nutraceutical composition.
 10. The composition of claim 9, further including another active agent, in particular selected from the group composed of emollients, moisturizing active agents, keratoregulators, keratolytics, healing agents and/or agents that restructure the cutaneous barrier, PPAR, RXR or LXR agonists, sebum-regulating agents, anti-irritation and/or anti-inflammatory and/or soothing agents, antioxidant agents, anti-aging agents, depigmenting or hypopigmenting agents, pigmenting agents, lipolytic or lipogenesis inhibitor agents or anti-cellulitis or slimming agents, organic or mineral sun screens and filters (pigmentary or ultrafine), antifungal compounds, preservatives, antibacterial agents, prebiotics and probiotics, antibiotics, and immunomodulators.
 11. The composition of claim 9 or claim 10, characterized in that the other active agent is selected from: healing agents and/or agents that restructure the cutaneous barrier, preferably panthenol, arabinogalactan, zinc oxide, ceramides, cholesterol, squalane and phospholipids, sebum-regulating agents, preferably selected from 5-alpha reductase inhibitors and zinc derivatives, anti-inflammatory and/or anti-irritation and/or soothing agents, preferably arabinogalactan, hypopigmenting or depigmenting agents, preferably N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine, organic or mineral sun screens and filters, preferably UVB and/or UVA sun screens and filters, and preservatives preferably selected from capryloyl glycine, glyceryl caprylate and hexanediol.
 12. The composition of any one of claims 9 to 11, further including at least one other active agent selected from the group composed of: plant oils, preferably soy oil, rapeseed oil, avocado oil, lupin oil, and advantageously sweet white lupin oil, or a mixture of these oils, oleodistillates or concentrates of plant or animal oil, preferably of sunflower, avocado, rapeseed, corn and palm and advantageously concentrated in unsaponifiables, unsaponifiables of plants or plant oil, preferably avocado unsaponifiables, soy unsaponifiables or mixtures thereof, advantageously of avocado furans, and in particular, a mixture of avocado furanic unsaponifiables and soy unsaponifiables in a respective ratio of approximately 1/3-2/3, sterolic unsaponifiables, phytosterols, esters of sterols and vitamin derivatives, peptides or complexes of plant amino acids, preferably avocado peptides, lupin peptides, quinoa peptides, maca peptides, fermented or non-fermented soy peptides, rice peptides, plant sugars, preferably avocado sugars, butyl avocadate, polyphenol-rich extracts, preferably extracts of the above-ground parts of Gynandropsis gynandra and extracts of maca leaves, lupeol, total lupin extract, extract of Acacia macrostachya seeds, extract of maca leaves, an extract of Schisandra sphenanthera and an extract of Vigna unguiculata seeds, oxazolines, preferably 2-undecyl-4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-1,3-oxazoline, 2-undecyl-4,4-dimethyl-1,3-oxazoline, (E)-4,4-dimethyl-2-heptadec-8-enyl-1,3-oxazoline, 4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-2-heptadecyl-1,3-oxazoline, (E)-4-hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-2-heptadec-8-enyl-1,3-oxazoline, 2-undecyl-4-ethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-oxazoline and 2-undecyl-4,4-dimethyl-1,3-oxazoline, and mixtures thereof.
 13. The composition of any one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that it is formulated to be administered by topical or oral route.
 14. The composition of any one of claims 9 to 13 or extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8 to be used in the prevention and/or treatment of disorders or pathologies of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or appendages, advantageously allergic, inflammatory or irritative reactions or pathologies or disorders of the barrier or homeostasis of the skin, or vascular disorders or as depigmenting and healing agent.
 15. A cosmetic care method for the skin and/or appendages and/or mucous membranes, advantageously for sensitive skin, with a view to improving the condition and/or appearance thereof, in particular in order to promote the hydration thereof, or to improve the firmness, elasticity or tonicity of the skin and to prevent the accumulation of adipose tissue and skin with cellulitis, or to reduce pigmentation spots, or to prevent and/or treat aging, comprising the administration of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 9 to 13 or an extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to
 8. 